Garden Graces And Heavenly Places

            The first thing you need to decide is where to put your garden.  Then you need to look at your soil in your chosen garden spot.  Lastly you can decide what and how much to plant.  In deciding where to put your garden, choose a well-drained and sunny site, with no large trees near by if possible.  Tree roots will absorb nutrients and water that your garden needs and a large tree will shade the area too much.  Also consider how much a young tree may grow in the coming years.  Most flowers and vegetables need a full day of sunshine, but there are some varieties of plants that will tolerate some shade. 

After choosing your garden’s locale, take a look at the soil in the area.   Plant nutrient absorption is dependent on a soil’s pH, which is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. The minerals in a soil and the amount of rain that passes through the soil determine its acidity or alkalinity. You are shooting for a pH of close to 7.0, which is neutral, that is, it is neither alkaline, nor acidic. Soils with a pH below 7.0 are acidic, and those with a pH higher than 7.0 are alkaline. Most plants absorb nutrients best in a soil with a pH between 6 and 7.5. Test kits are available if you want to go to the trouble, but a good guideline is that acidic soils are more common in the eastern half of the United States, where rainfall is greatest, and alkaline soil is more common in the western half of the U.S.  Add ground lime if the soil is too acidic, or garden sulfur if it is too alkaline.  Most plants do best in a soil type known as loam, which contains roughly 50 percent sand, 25 percent clay, and 25 percent silt. You can add sand and compost to clay soils to improve its structure. 

After you’ve prepared your soil, you can decide whether you want traditional garden rows or the newer square foot garden.  I like the square foot garden which is divided into squares, so you can do one or two squares at a time and not kill yourself digging 30 rows at one time.  It’s less time consuming in the long run.  When one square stops producing, you can re-mulch it and replant another crop immediately.  When you add your mulch more often this way, it helps improve the soil faster than a traditional row garden.  This type of successive gardening helps with crop rotation.  Just move everything over one square the next time you plant.  It may help to map out your garden to help you remember what you planted where. Square gardening also helps facilitate companion planting which puts everything in closer proximity.  Onions and garlic are never farther away than a few feet, which helps deter some pests. You can also plant a square of marigolds and nasturtiums to deter pests. 

Before planting seeds, you should break up or till the soil. Some gardeners turn over the soil with a spade, while others break it up with a garden fork. I have found the t-handled hand garden tiller to be the best method for a small garden plot (under about 30 small rows or squares.) After tilling the soil, rake out any large debris, and then rake it smooth before planting. Some gardeners choose not to loosen the soil because the oxygen that enters the soil when it is tilled quickens the breakdown of needed organic matter in the soil. Instead, they just dig a small hole for each seed or plant. To keep the soil loose so that roots can develop easily, they keep it covered with a good layer of mulch. This organic matter encourages large populations of worms, whose tunneling breaks up the soil.

Every good gardener has a well-maintained compost pile.  Garden, yard, and table wastes may be composted for a good fertilizer. A compost pile may be built by layering different kinds of waste in a wire or wood bin. It’s helpful to leave on side open for ease of access.  Manure or greenery adds nitrogen to the pile to generate heat. Heat facilitates rotting and kills harmful organisms. Slightly dampen the pile and then cover it to facilitate the process. As heat builds up, the waste decomposes into a nutrient-rich compost. Some things you can add to the compost bin are grass clippings, leaves, wood ashes, fruit peels, vegetable matter, coffee grounds, egg shells, and animal manure, especially rabbit and chicken wastes. Adding wood ash adds needed potassium to the soil.  Other materials that can be used as mulch include bark chips, pine cones, newspapers and cardboard. The compost should be mixed and watered ever so often.  After a few months, the new compost can then be either dug in to the garden soil or applied around plants as a fertilizer and mulch. Mulching in bare spots between plants will also keep down weeds, but it is important that the mulch not touch the garden plants, or they may begin to rot. The mulch also keeps the soil from drying out. If plants look pale and weak in midsummer, add some new compost or other fertilizer again.

After preparing the soil for your garden of delights, you can decide what to plant and how much you want to plant.  Most beginners so too much seed and don’t thin the plants enough, so don’t over do.  Seeds need to be planted at different depths, depending on the seed’s size and its need for light. Seeds contain stored food that provides the energy needed for sprouting, or germination. Small seeds don’t hold much food, so they are sown on or near the soil surface, where they will not need a lot of energy to push through the soil. Larger seeds have enough food to be planted a bit deeper, which gives the root system more time to develop as the seedling grows up through the soil. As a general rule, a seed should be planted three times as deep as the seed is wide. Some seeds, such as lettuce, need light to germinate and must be sown on or very near the soil surface. Once the seeds are sown, the gardener gently presses down the soil so that the seed touches soil, which helps keep the seeds moist. Flower bulbs need to be planted at a depth that prevents them from sprouting above ground too early, when the weather may be too cold. Bulbs should generally be planted at a depth that is at least three times the bulb size.

After sowing your seed or planting your bulbs, young plants will need to be watered regularly.  Most plants need about an inch of water a week, so if nature doesn’t provide the needed thirst quencher, then you will have to do it yourself.  One way to water plants is by using plastic milk jugs or cola bottles with small holes punched in the bottom.  These should be filled with water, and placed beside a plant. Watering larger areas usually requires a sprinkler. Evaporation of water from the soil can be minimized by covering the soil with a protective layer of mulch. Mulch acts as a barrier that slows evaporation by reducing the amount of air and heat that reaches the soil surface. Most gardeners water in the early morning, when the air is cool and still, but the sun will soon dry the leaves. This helps to avoid plant diseases that thrive in cool, moist conditions and to reduce water lost through evaporation. 

Gardeners who want to plant in early spring, while there is still a threat of frost, should use a cold frame. A cold frame works like a small greenhouse to protect young plants from the cold. It can be as simple as a wood box with no bottom, and a piece of plastic or glass over the top. The clear plastic or glass cover traps heat from the sun. Another way is to have a small green house to start and protect young plants.  Any old shed can be easily converted to a gardening shed with a few shelves and a table or two to work on.  It helps if it is well lighted or has windows or sky lights to let the sunshine in.  

            After your garden is planted, the next thing you have to worry about is weeds.  But if you’ve mulched well, it shouldn’t be a big problem.  You can hoe up the roots or dig out the long tap roots of some weeds.  Some of these weeds, though, are quite edible and can be left or transplanted in another area of the garden.  Sorel, which has a lemony taste, is one weed that can be a good addition to a beginner’s garden.  It can be a good salad green.  Another good green is the common dandelion.  The dandelion’s leaves are edible if collected early in the spring before they become too bitter. The young leaves are used for salad greens and the larger older leaves for potherbs. The root of the dandelion can be used as a laxative and is also roasted and ground as a substitute or adulterant for coffee, and the flowers are sometimes used for making wine. Wild ginger is another.  Its roots make a good tea.   If you’re planting flowers as well, daylilies are a good addition and can also be eaten. The roots, as well as, the flower are edible.  These might make a good border around your vegetable patch. 

            The last thing on the list for a beginner is to watch out for bugs.  Insects that are good for the garden are pollinators, like bees and wasps, and insects that eat bad insects, such as the preying mantis and the ladybug.  Other good things for the garden are earthworms and rolly-pollies.  Snails and slugs are the biggest pests and should be eliminated if possible.  Placing used coffee grounds throughout the garden may help deter these.  Some swear by stale bear traps, which are tin cans placed in the ground with a little stale beer added to it.  The snails crawl into them and can’t get back out.  If you’ve laid walking planks between your garden plots, you can periodically lift them and destroy the snails you find there, as well.  There is an assortment of other insects that cause problems in the garden, so you may want to consider using a pesticide, but these can destroy beneficial insects as well.  It’s best just to had pick in a small garden and destroy what you know is bad.  Caterpillars can be nasty invaders, too, along with the tomato hornworm.  Onions and garlic helps deter some pests, as well as marigolds and nasturtiums.  Plant these in several areas of the garden. 

Some additions to the garden that will make your little piece of earth a little piece of heaven is a water pond, a fire pit, and a bird bath.  A small decorative water pond near the garden can bring beneficial frogs to the garden to help control insects. A stylish bird bath is also a nice addition that will bring birds to the garden to eat the insects.  A fire pit is a nice place to sit beside on a cool evening and also keeps you supplied in wood ash.  You can burn pine cones and other small fallen yard debris.  Benches, trellises, and other additions can help beautify the area.  These can be very simple or highly elaborate and as decorative as you desire them to be.  Your garden should be as beautiful as it is healthful, so eat the fruits of your labor fresh from the vine, and feast your eyes on all the beauty that God has provided us. So now that you have the basics of garden graces, sit back and relax a while in all your heavenly places. 

Written by MamaHeartfilled
Christian Counselor, and founder of Go Fish Ministries, Inc. for victims of sexual and domestic violence. http://gofishministries.wordpress.com/

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How to grow a Victory Garden

It doesn’t matter if you have a yard or just a patio, anyone can grow their own fresh fruits or Vegetables all you need is a container and you are ready to start.

So Ready? Set? Grow!

Wether you have a tiny patio or a huge lot, anyone can grow fresh organic vegetables for their family.

Victory gardens are spouting up everywhere, even in empty lots…

People are doing what is sometimes called Gureilla guardening. This is where a group of people get together and simply start a garden in a vacant lot somewhere or even sometimes in the yard at the house next door if it is vacant and expected to be so for quite some time.

Vegetables are grown in containers so that they can be moved (in thoery at least) in the case that the lot is sold.

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But for most of us this is a bit more than we want to do or risk with our gardens.

If you have a small space that you can dedicate to a garden, you CAN have your own Victory Garden

Raised Bed gardens, are becoming the way to go in gardening, especially if you have clay or otherwise poor soil. A raised bed garden is simply a garden that is grown above the soil base. You do NOT need something to contain this kind of gardening although most people use a frame of some sort. The key is to keep the beds only as wide as you can reach in from both sides. You do not want to walk on the beds as this compresses the soil and damages the beneficial life hidden beneath the soil.

How to grow a Victory garden


Raised bed victory gardens are popping up everywhere these days, even in vacant lots!

raised bed gardening is quickly becoming all the new rage, but what is it exactly?

During WWI and WWII we had the Victory Garden and every red blooded American Wife or woman had a Victory garden growing in the back yard. This way the produce from Americas Farmers could go to the war effort and the food produced at home could be spread around the community so that every one was fed.

With these tough economic times we are seeing a rapid resurgence of the traditional Victory Garden but in a new non-traditional way… The Raised bed gardens are quickly becoming the Victory Garden of Today.

You do not need allot of room to grow a Victory Garden, you can even do it in Containers or Pots on your patio or porch.

But for the purpose of this article we will be focusing more on the Raised Bed gardens that are being seen as the Modern Day Victory Garden.

This used to be called Square Foot Gardening and is much the same.

Most beds will be 3-4 ft wide and as long as you wish to make them. They do not need a rigid support wall like I am discussing, you can simply lay down the chicken wire and then start piling compost and soil on top of the wire to create your own Victory Garden.

The reason for the beds being 3-4 ft wide is so that you can reach the middle from either side and not have to walk in your garden and disturb the soil.

What are some of the things that you may need to build your Victory Garden?

scrap materials to make a frame
compost
potting or planting mix
grass clippings
coffee grounds
cardboard
shredded paper
small hole chicken wire

no boring wind rows here,

get creative when designing the shape of your garden, make it the focal point to your yard Decide on where you will put your Victory Garden and the Dimensions you will want it to be.

Stake out the area or otherwise define it then give it a second look to insure that it is exactly how you will want it to be.

You do not have to set your Victory Garden up in boring rows, you can design your Victory Garden in such a way to make it uniquely Yours.

Chicken wire prevents gophers and other burrowing pests from eating your vegetables from the root up

Once you have the area or shape of your Victory Garden defined you can then lay out your chicken wire.

The purpose of the chicken wire is to prevent gophers, moles and ground squirrels from gaining access to the roots of your precious vegetables and eating them up before you get the chance to serve them to your family.

get creative

Use anything you happen to have at hand, even a childs pool can make a wonderful Victory Garden.
If you are going to use a frame for your Victory garden, now is the time to do so.
Get creative, you can use old shelving (wood or metal) a bookcase, some 4×4′s or even corrigated aluminum to frame your unique garden design. When you assemble your frame you should be sure to secure the corners in such a way that the pressure and weight of the soil will not burst it at the seams.

What a wonderful reuse of a bed frame.

Here in the photo above, both the chicken wire and the cardboard is already down for a wonderful weed block. Lay down several layers of newspaper or cardboard over your chicken wire to give a wonderful foundation for your Victory Garden. The deeper you can make this layer the better for the soil and the roots of your plants.

This thick layer of cardboard makes for a great weed block and… as it decomposes it adds wonderful nutrients to the soil, earthworms and other microbes will then feed on cardboard and in turn enrich your soil.

Your Victory garden does not have to be in boring rows, you can design anything you choose!

Once everything is in place it is time to fill in your frame for the Victory Garden
Start filling in the frame or base to your Victory Garden using shredded paper, aged steer or horse manure, compost, straw, potting mix, ect. Just be sure to place this in layers, no need to break out that roto tiller…you are building a habitat for beneficial organisms to create a wonderfully rich soil habitat!


These raised bed Victory Garden boxes have a trellis on one end for growing climbers

Don’t worry if your Victory Garden soil level is not too deep the first year, you will continue to add to it year after year, eventually the area will be filled in with wonderful soil for growing plants.

Adding a trellis of some sort will give climbers like cucumbers, peas and even things such as cantalope and Watermelon a place to stay off the ground. Of course you will need to make a sling for cantalope and watermelon to prevent them from dragging the climbers down and killing the vine.

This is a wonderful way to support heavy climbers and tomatoes

Once you have at least 6 inches of soil in your base or defined area, you can plant, so don’t worry if your Victory Garden is not really filled up to the top of the planter the first year you start.

A compost pile or bin is a must if you want to grow organic fruits and vegetables for your family.

This can be as simple as a pile or as complex as a compost tumbler If you have not already started on you should plan on starting a compost pile so that you will have pleanty of organic material cooking to make awesome soil next year.
Personally, instead of a compost bin or pile, I have dedicated worm bins. I feed my family’s organic material to the worms and harvest the resultant compost (or vermapost) and use it for my Victory garden.

A compost pile or bin from the average yard trimmings and family foot waste, can provide more than enough rich organiccompost for your soil or your garden, year after year

You can use anything can make your frame,
don’t worry if it isn’t filled this year.

Victory gardening just gets better and better every year Once you have your Victory Garden planted for the first year, you can sit back and enjoy watching your vegetables grow.

consider a Herb spiral as a focal point to your Victory Garden.

Herb spirals take into consideration the water and shade needs of various herbs. The herbs that like full sun and drier soil are planted at the top of the spiral. Then you need to take into consideration the shade and water needs of your other herbs and plant them accordingly. Those that like full sun are planted on the south or sun side of the spiral and so on.

In the fall when it is time to harvest yoru Victory Garden, you can begin building the soil again for next years gardening. Lay down several layers of cardboard or shredded paper and then follow with layers of organic material, compost, aged steer manure, ect.

For an effective weed block you can keep the area covered with black plastic to keep the weeds out and help the organic material underneath properly cook and compost to give you a richer healthier soil base next year.

About 1-2 months before planning your next years Victory Garden make sure to place several layers of newspaper or cardboard down and water your garden thouroughly making sure that the cardboard is well soaked this will bring up the earthworms and beneficial microbes that help protect your precious vegetables

This will give time for the beneficial micro-organisms to multiply and assist your plants to be healthier and grow faster than they did last year.

Tips & Warnings

During the fall and winter months you want to water your Victory Garden bed at least once or twice a month. Give it a good soak and then leave it alone till the next watering.
Continue to add organic material to your Victory garden thruout the winter so that it has pleanty of time to compost and cook. This will give your plants a healthier start next spring.
Do not over water your Victory Garden
Do not walk on your Victory Garden, each step on the garden kills beneficial microorganisms that are improving your soil.

Written by mommyhen42

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How to plan your Garden

Article by Isak Botma – sos-gardening

All gardens are different. They vary greatly in size and shape and in the ingredients which make them up. There is no recipe for a well-planned garden -indeed, in many cases it is a garden’s uniqueness that makes it special. But be careful thought at the planning stage will reward you, year after year, with the satisfaction of having a garden that meets all your needs and that works well, practically as well as visually.

This confined corner of a garden in high summer has all the appeal of a charming outdoor room. The seat on a terrace is surrounded by the luxuriant growth of sunloving climbing plants. The banksian rose (Rosa banksiae ‘Lutea’) showers deep primrose coloured clusters of flowers, some falling on to the sapphire blue Ceanothus ‘Cascade’. The bearded iris links harmoniouslv with the vellow rose. The natural stone path, fringed and colonized by low-growing plants, offers a dry place to sit all year round.

If a garden has been carefully thought out and well designed, it not only looks pleasing, with a strong layout, harmonious materials and attractive planting, but it works. This is to say that the paths are in the right place, the terrace is afforded some shade, the utilitarian areas of the garden are screened off and, if appropriate, there is somewhere for young children to play. Whatever the components of the garden, there should be a logical progression through the garden and a theme tying the whole together, be it a certain material, colour or style of planting.

Whether you are creating a garden from scratch, or modifYing an existing one, it is vital to devote enough time to the important preliminaty stages of forethought, research and planning. Mistakes are all too often made, or inappropriate decisions taken, which could have been avoided if the options had been fully explored at the initial stage. It is dangerous to narrow your mind early on, as interesting 8 opportunities may all too easily be overlooked, only to be recalled when it is too late.

Forethought involves deciding what you expect from the garden and how you will use it. It implies a consideration of the materials you will use -for paving, walls and hedges -as well as the main plants. Today there is a greater range of materials available than ever before, which provides an exciting choice but at the same time such a wide range can baffle the inexperienced and it becomes difficult to know where and how to start making decisions. Besides questions of cost, appropriateness and personal taste, you should bear in mind the local climate when selecting materials, and choose something that will prove long-lasting and resilient. I place great emphasis on the importance of research, which to my mind lies in critically observing other properties, where positive and negative lessons may be learned at first hand. Once you start looking around, you will soon recognize materials, building styles and designs that are in sympathy with their surroundings -and additions of inappropriate style and materials even quicker. This is not a question of taste, good or bad, for taste, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. It is a matter of respect for existing features -the surrounding landscape or other buildings -and working with, rather than against, what you have. This does not mean that we should slavishly reproduce and restore evety garden hack to its presumed origins, for some of the finest gardens have been made over a long period and owe their beauty to a succession of stages which time has helped to unite. But the use ofsympathetic.materials or period features will significantly ease a newly designed or redesigned garden into its context.

Developing the planIn working out a ground plan for the garden, you should aim for a balanced ratio between hard landscape areas, such as paths, terraces and drives, and the soft, planted areas made up of lawns, shrub beds and herbaceous borders. Both hard and soft surfaces have to fulfil practical roles, such as paths providing dry routes through the garden in winter and a terrace furnished comfortably as a sitting-out area for meals and relaxation. Lawns should always be considered carefully, no matter how small the garden, for they provide a unique, bland surface against which both plants and paving can be shown to good effect. The overall layout should link the hard and soft areas, the trees, shrubs and flower borders together harmoniously, so that the garden has a natural flow.

Planning a garden is in some respects like designing the interior ofa house involving both structural divisions and decorations -but there is one important difference: many of the components in a garden are ofliving material, which may not only increase in size but also undergo a change of character as they mature. To allow fur this, a well-planned garden must have cettain tolerances built into its concept, with longer-term plans as well as immediate solutions. For example, yew hedges will take several 10 years to grow tall enough but in the meantime you might erect a short-term boundary such as a fence.

You may decide to keep the garden as a single area, open and spacious in its appeal, or to divide it into two or more intimate and, perhaps, strikingly different garden ‘rooms’. The way in which these areas are separated off from one another will provide one of the strongest structural elements of a garden. By building the internal divisions in the same material as the boundary structures, you will achieve unity or, from a new material, introduce contrast.

The plants you choose will of course reflect personal preference but they should always be suitable for the regional climate as well as the garden’s orientation and type of soil; it is also important that they are an appropriate size for the scale of the garden. In some cases a single specimen of one plant may easily be sufficient, such as the ornamental rhubarb (Rheum palmatum), but in other cases a clump or drift may be called for to give greater impact, such as a drift of bluebells through shrub planting, or anemones through a wood. A specimen tree or shrub, for example Comus contr()versa ‘Variegata’ , or a herbaceous plant of dramatic shape like a globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus), may become a feature in its own right, in the same way that a statue or a large container might be used, as a focal point within the garden. Such features can contribute greatly to the character and emphasis of the garden and should be carefully sited for maximum effect.

During the course of this artical we look at the ingredients of a well-planned garden separately from the vertical elements of boundary walls, fences and hedges and the horizontal elements of paths and paving, lawns and level changes, to the structural and ornamental fearures that furnish the garden and, ofcourse, the plants that bring it to life by providing colour and interest at different seasons. But it is only when the component parts of a garden are brought together as a cohesive whole that a garden really begins to work as a space which is well furnished, logical and attractive.

•How to plan your garden

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